I have a 2001 impala that i have had trouble with lifter noise when cold. I have put mmo in the engine and the gas and it does not seem to help. i have also tried Lucas oil additive also and it does not seem to help. I switched from GM 5w30 to Quaker 10w30 and all this summer i had no problem with the noise. But as soon as the temp cooled of it is back. it will stop after about 5 minutes. Hope you can help with this. thanks
A tappet or lifter noise that comes and goes is usually related to a sticky varnish inside the lifters. The varnish will become more sticky in cold weather. You have stated you have used MMO in the oil. I would try it again making sure that you replace one quart of oil with one quart of MMO. If the vehicle is driven mostly on the highway, run the oil for 3000 miles. If it is all city driving, change it after 2000 miles. The cleaning additives in MMO should remove the varnish in time.
The other option is to purchase an oil detergent like CD-2 Oil Detergent Stock #4111 to add to the oil. This additive is designed to quiet noisy valves and lifters. You can run the two additives together if desired. Hope this helps!
Out of curiosity, how much MMO can be safely used? I believe my crankcase in my Dodge Aries is 4.0 qts......would 1 QUART of MMO, and 3 QUARTS of motor oil (25%) be too much? Or should I just stick to the “pint” of MMO and 3 quarts, and a half of motor oil (20%) ?
I’m sure when Marvel created the formula, most vehicles _were_ 5 qt capacity, but nowadays, it’s not too rare for even 3.5 qt crankcase (Honda, some Nissans, etc).
I’d stick with the 20% at most. If you don’t get results, it may be too late and it’ll be a mechanical issue that MMO will not resolve. Keep us posted.
SuperDuty is right. The rule of thumb: Marvel should be used around 20 percent in the crank case. The new Marvel bottle is clear so it’s easy to dial back the treat rate. So in a 4 quart sump put in 3/4 of a bottle. Thanks for the point you brought up.
No problems per se (thanks for the tip though hehehe) but just was curious if there would be an easier way of handling the open quarts
Half a quart works great for me. My local walmart sells the 1 pint bottle (half a quart) which work GREAT for my 4 qt sump. 3.5 quarts of motor oil, and then the 1 pint (or half-quart) of MMO was added last OCI to get me to the 4 qt full mark on my dipstick
I was just curious if 25% would be too much or not cause of the whole 1/2 quart hassle (and risk of mess in the trunk lol).
Half a quart works great for me. My local walmart sells the 1 pint bottle (half a quart) which work GREAT for my 4 qt sump. 3.5 quarts of motor oil, and then the 1 pint (or half-quart) of MMO was added last OCI to get me to the 4 qt full mark on my dipstick
I was just curious if 25% would be too much or not cause of the whole 1/2 quart hassle (and risk of mess in the trunk lol).
I buy MMO by the gallon at Wal-Mart and then refill my smaller bottles for carry in the car. I always have a pint bottle with 4 ounces in the car for when I fill up. When my car gets down to 1/4 of a tank or below, I just dump the 4 ounces in before pumping the gas. My fill-ups always run between 8 and 11 gallons so the 4 ounces works out great for me. If you have a larger tank, just put more in your pint bottle.
Sadly, we don’t have the gallon jugs down here in FL (at least not at my local walmart, would Mr Kelly or “MMO” have any suggestions? hehehe) but I wish we did since MMO seemed to work so great in my oil, next fill up I’m going to go ahead and start using it in my fuel.
Question though, should we be compensating for the “current fuel” that is in the fuel tank? I know there’s a wide variety of additives (Chevron included.....) that state to empty the tank as much as possible, or drive as much as possible before putting their additives in. Since I believe my vehicle has a 15 gallon tank (I think the extra 5 may be the “reserve” once the needle stops at the E though...lol) couldn’t I actually add 10 oz. of MMO to the fuel? To compensate for the “full tank” capacity particularly when I “fill up” (which is the majority of the time....I’m not a big penny pincher at the pump, rather throw in $20 than $4 one day, $5 the next, $7 a couple days after if you get my drift).
P.S. sorry for dragging the thread off topic lol. Started out regarding MMO in the oil, to MMO in the gas
Sadly, we don’t have the gallon jugs down here in FL (at least not at my local walmart, would Mr Kelly or “MMO” have any suggestions? hehehe) but I wish we did since MMO seemed to work so great in my oil, next fill up I’m going to go ahead and start using it in my fuel.
Question though, should we be compensating for the “current fuel” that is in the fuel tank? I know there’s a wide variety of additives (Chevron included.....) that state to empty the tank as much as possible, or drive as much as possible before putting their additives in. Since I believe my vehicle has a 15 gallon tank (I think the extra 5 may be the “reserve” once the needle stops at the E though...lol) couldn’t I actually add 10 oz. of MMO to the fuel? To compensate for the “full tank” capacity particularly when I “fill up” (which is the majority of the time....I’m not a big penny pincher at the pump, rather throw in $20 than $4 one day, $5 the next, $7 a couple days after if you get my drift).
P.S. sorry for dragging the thread off topic lol. Started out regarding MMO in the oil, to MMO in the gas
Yeah, for the first application. Then for continued use just figure 0.4 oz per gallon, that way you will have the correct proportion regardless of how much gas you put in at that time.
Sadly, we don’t have the gallon jugs down here in FL (at least not at my local walmart, would Mr Kelly or “MMO” have any suggestions? hehehe) but I wish we did since MMO seemed to work so great in my oil, next fill up I’m going to go ahead and start using it in my fuel.
Question though, should we be compensating for the “current fuel” that is in the fuel tank? I know there’s a wide variety of additives (Chevron included.....) that state to empty the tank as much as possible, or drive as much as possible before putting their additives in. Since I believe my vehicle has a 15 gallon tank (I think the extra 5 may be the “reserve” once the needle stops at the E though...lol) couldn’t I actually add 10 oz. of MMO to the fuel? To compensate for the “full tank” capacity particularly when I “fill up” (which is the majority of the time....I’m not a big penny pincher at the pump, rather throw in $20 than $4 one day, $5 the next, $7 a couple days after if you get my drift).
P.S. sorry for dragging the thread off topic lol. Started out regarding MMO in the oil, to MMO in the gas
Sadly, Mr. Kelly has retired and left us. He’ll show up from time to time on the forum to help us out! So, you’re stuck with me, ‘MMO’.
If you can’t find MMO gallon size at your local Walmart, you can always purchase from our online store: http://www.turtlewaxstore.com, it retails for $17.99 + shipping.
I changed the oil sat and put i quart of MMO and 3 and 1/2 Quaker state 10w30. The next morning i started it and it tapped for about 3 minutes and stopped. i drove it on a trip for about two hours and stoped and started it about three times and it worked fine. and on the way home we stopped and shut it off for about ten minutes and it started tapping for about 30 seconds and quit. and again this morning when cold it was bad and missing tapped for ten minutes then stopped. my wife drives it to work it takes her 5 minutes to get there. and when she comes home for lunch it tappes for about 2 minutes. Could it be a lifter not pumping up? Ive tried about everything and nothing has really worked. It was fine all summer never tapped once. Sorry for complaning i just dont know what to do. Thanks
why didnt it do it when the weather was warm? and why does it quiet down after awhile? Thanks
Just a quess. The spring’s “Modulus of Elasticity”. When metal heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Sounds more and more like when the springs heat up, they expand and work properly and when they are cold or at lower operating temps they tap because they are contracted, which would tell me the springs lifespan is pretty much over and its time for a new set. Everything has a yield point for expansion, contraction, bending ect....When kept under yield points, the material will do as it should for a long time. When taken beyond the yield points( over time), it’ll start to undermine the integrity of the material. Hope this helps.
